endek and batikBatik is a wax-resist dyeing process for fabrics used by the Javanese people about a thousand years. The technique involves applying molten wax to those area of the clothes that are remain un-dyed. When the waxed fabric is submerged in a dye bath, the unwaxed areas are colored, and the wax-coated areas repel or resit coloring.
Traditional batik are made in the following manner. The fabric, usually cotton, is washed and dried several times then starch solution is washed in as a sizing. Next the fabric is beaten to smooth it out and to prepare the fibers for dyeing, meanwhile the design is drawn on the fabric with a spouted applicator called a canting or printed on with a copper stamp called a cap. Next the fabric is dyed and when dry, the fabric is either scraped or boiled to remove the wax. The waxing and dyeing process is repeated for each color in finished batik. One does not have to be an expert to know there are numerous types of batik. There are differences in material such as cotton and silk, recently synthetic materials, as well as linen and wool. There are differences in technique, such as hand drawn, printed material, similar to ordinary material only using traditional batik desigs.
However, it takes an expert’s eye to differentiate between the batik originating from regions and even more discerning knowledge to distinguish between works of different batik artist. The same thing also happened to the traditional cloths in Bali like songket gerinsing, endek, and batik Bali.
Endek is a Balinese weft ikat cloth. It is a woven, tie-dyed weft cloth. Balinese endek is tied nad dyed before the threads are woven into cloth. In preparing endek, the weft or cross threads are dyed ; the warp, the threads that are initially strung on the loom, are left in a solid color. To prepare the pattern, the weft threads are temporarily strung on a frame and workers use strips of plastic tape to tie a pattern, into the threads. The threads are taped off in bunches, and then the threads are removed from the frame and soaked in vast of dye. They are dried, the tape removed, and the thread is spun onto the shuttle. When the dyed threads are woven into a loom set up with a solid warp, the design reappears. Because the warp threads are taped off in bunches, and because perfect registration of the design is impossible, the finished endek pattern has an attractive, fuzzy edged look.